My Pump 1 and 2 are both working, but still getting the FL1 code and no heat. I tried the hose trick, and some bubbles did come out of the footbed of the spa. Cleaned and removed filter. Tried cutting power from the breaker. Water level is good. At this point do you think it is a direct problem with the functionality of the Flow Switch? Any other suggestions to try?
FL1 Code
- by Nigel
- 9 replies
9 thoughts on “FL1 Code”
Hi Brant. What’s the make, model and serial number of your spa? Once I have that info I’ll know what equipment you have and can drill down on some troubleshooting technique’s for you.
Hey Nigel! Thank you for the response. It is a 2004 Sundance Spa Portofino – Metro series. Serial #OME9LXD-100208579-1105
I just noticed there is a small hose that comes off the main line just after the flow switch… it essentially doesn’t attach to anything and it looks like it broke off. I could not for the life of me figure out where it was supposed to go. I took a picture if you have somewhere I can send…
We did clean the tub thoroughly, but when we filled and turned on some gunk came out. I cleaned the filter multiple times, but I’m afraid some of it got into the system. Any idea where it might have gotten backed up. Figured I might be able to unhook a tube and get some of that junk out of there…
Hi Brant. The 2004 Metro had the one 2 speed jet pump and the small 120v Laing circulation pump. Do you see water movement from the Laing pump in the footwell of the spa at the small circulation fitting? With the Laing pump on you would see and or feel good flow from this fitting in the footwell.
I don’t… That would essentially be where the hot water is supposed to flow in from, right?
Hi Brant. If you don’t have flow there and you can’t hear the small circ pump running check for voltage at the circ pump test points on the board with your multimeter. If you have proper voltage you either have a plugged or bad circ pump and or a bad connection between the pump and the board. If you don’t have proper voltage at the test points you could have a bad board. Look for 120v at the test points. I’ve attached a purchase link for a new circ pump in case you require one. They are in stock. Let me know if you need a board. They are also in stock: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6500-460.html
Hey Nigel, I was finally able to test the test points on the board for the circ pump… Only read 42V. Assuming that this means I have a bad board? How is that possible!?
Hi Brant. Assuming you are testing with one probe on the neutral and one on the hot for the circulation pump yes that reading would indicate a bad board. Some people test to ground but I find a more accurate reading when testing the hot and neutral. Why it is not producing proper voltage is anybody’s guess. If the spa circuit board and or electrical has not be serviced recently and everything was working fine than you could chalk it up to just regular wear and tear. The circuit board is basically a processor like in any standard desktop or laptop computer. Consistent low line voltage can take out pump motors. Consistent hi line voltage or line voltage spikes can take out a circuit board. Typically when a spike takes out a board the board is dead and nothing works (sometimes you can see burn marks depending on the severity of the spike but this isn’t always the case). I’ve attached a purchase link for your replacement board. They are in stock and would ship today if purchased within the next 60min. If purchased after am 10:30 CST it would ship Monday: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-spas-pwa-motherboard-1-pump-logic-part-number-6600-724.html
Yeah, I haven’t seen any burn marks or anything like that, but like you said, who knows. Thanks for sending over that link. Before I purchase, I want to make sure… I did test the points just for the circ pump…I think it was like J11 and J14 or something like that on the board. I didn’t put either point on a ground. Although my skills in that area are limited at best, I do think I tested properly and can confirm that IT IS the board that is bad. Would you agree?
The 2 speed jet pump is working well, it’s just the circ pump that isn’t coming on and no heat. I guess to develop my question, is there any way to tell that if I replace the board I might still have to replace the circ pump too?
Hi Brant. Yes the test points would be J11 and J14. To answer your question, if you replace the board and you then have proper voltage at those test points but the circ pump is still not running you could bench test the circ pump. Your Metro should have a 120v circ pump so you could wire a 120v plug to it and plug it into a wall socket. If it doesn’t run you will know it is bad. You could do that before you even change your board if you like.